Do you want to start sewing Jersey?
Maybe using our pattern PRETTY WOMAN?
Here are some tips for sewing stretch and stretch fabrics!
What is jersey?
Jersey is the fabric used mainly for T-shirts and clothing stretchable (sportswear, swimwear, etc.).
It is part of the knit family of fabrics, as opposed to "warp and weft" fabrics.
In jersey, the yarns are knitted in loops, which means that the fabric is stretchy in the 2 senses.
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1) The yarn to use:
A classic polyester thread classic will do just fine.
A foam yarn too, elastic and resistant! 💪🏼
2) Which needles to choose?
Sewing needles must be able to prick the Jersey without damaging the stitches.
Choose stretch or jersey needles, with a round end, which pass between the stitches without piercing them.
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3) Which presser foot to choose?
A teflon foot or a superior feed foot will help you with your jersey sewing!
If you have a serger, this is ideal because the assembly will be faster and the finishes will be cleaner.
That said, it is quite possible to sew jersey without an overlocker and with a conventional sewing machine, using a suitable foot...
4) Which stitch to choose for sewing jersey?
With a classic sewing machine
The ideal is to use a special jersey stitch; but if your machine doesn't have one, you can use the zigzag stitch.
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The zigzag stitch: You will find it on all sewing machines. Configure it to have a narrow, long zigzag (width 1-2mm, length 3-4mm) that resembles the stretch knit stitch.
On more sophisticated machines you will also find other stretch stitches:
The stretch stitch: it is the equivalent of the straight stitch for stretch fabrics. To use this, allow for larger seam allowances than usual, to prevent the fabric from slipping under your presser foot.
Once the seam has been made, trim the seam allowances with scissors to reduce them to 0.5 or 1 cm.
The jersey does not fray, you can leave the fabric raw.
Overlock
Use the 4-thread overlock stitch on your serger.
This is a soft and strong stitch that allows you to sew and overcast in one step.
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5) Jersey finishes
Hems
For a simple hem, fold over and double-needle stitch
If you don't have a twin needle, you can use a wide decorative stitch from the sewing machine!
In this case, remember to overcast the edge of the garment first, before folding it back.
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Topstitching
You can topstitch using a stretch twin needle, a wide decorative stitch on your sewing machine or a coverstitch (if you have a coverstitch) .
For a simple topstitch, use the chainstitch on your serger, removing the knife first!
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Sewing Tips:
Some useful tips for easily sewing elastic fabric like jersey on the sewing machine ;-)
- Do not pull the fabric when sewing
- Decrease your presser foot tension if possible on your machine. Adjusting the presser foot pressure correctly may be enough to prevent the fabric from curling.
- No need to overcast jersey unlike other fabrics. This material does not fray --> save time on the sewing steps!
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bonjour Merci pour ces bons conseils.
Lorsque j’utilise l’aiguille double sur ma MAC, je mets du fil mousse dans la canette. Cela évite qu’il y ait un bourrelet entre les 2 piqûres sur l’endroit